086. Why Someone Else's 'Wardrobe Essentials' Won't Get You Far
45 Questions To Go Beyond the 'Perfect White Tee'
This week, I came across a Vogue article titled ‘I Just Got Back From NYC, And All The Girls Are Wearing The Same Jacket’. And this is enticing to whom? I replied out loud to no one. Most conversations around fashion I have participated in or been privy to this year have centred around cultivating one’s individuality. People who consume fashion content seem to have flocked to Substack for a break from the algorithm-flattened style displayed on our Instagram feeds. I wondered whether a headline like this one still gets as many clicks today as it did three years ago. Perhaps I’m too sheltered within my carefully curated fashion media diet to realise that what’s Hot Right Now still matters a great deal.
If you’ve been with me since 2020, you’ve heard me discuss the concept of timeless fashion ad nauseam. I have been on my own journey with it only to arrive at this: I don’t see the appeal of buying something because everyone is wearing it. Anymore. But saying I’m immune to the trend cycle would be a lie. I do feel the pull to dress for my time and sport a silhouette that feels current.
Would you have clicked? How much does everyone wearing something increase its desirability for you?
This is a good segue into this week’s newsletter, which tackles the elusive Wardrobe Basics. It’s my first time discussing the topic in the newsletter. I’m somewhat allergic to the narrative surrounding wardrobe basics, designed to make us spend more and look like carbon copies of one another. I’m thousands of dollars lighter from years spent trying to replicate every Tom, Dick and Harry’s wardrobe basics collection. I have fallen for the promise of the ‘perfect button-down’ and the ‘ultimate white tee’ a dozen times until I realised I neither needed nor wanted them.
Today, I explain why replicating another person’s wardrobe basics often leads to disappointment. I propose a list of 45 questions you can ask yourself to identify the wardrobe essentials best tailored to you. I then share a list of brands that do wardrobe basics well. Spoiler alert: they’re brands that understand that every woman looks different. This newsletter covers all types of basic tops you might need as part of a highly efficient wardrobe, from what I call the supporting acts - the ones you wear for comfort under knits, to basics with a bit of pizzazz you wear to go out. I also cover what you can expect from basics made of natural fibre versus synthetic blends and point out common fabric red flags found in wardrobe basics.
Let’s find out what’s basic to you, not fashion at large.
Identifying What To Keep and Repeat-Purchase
Before you think about shopping, it might be a good idea to take stock of the pieces that work the hardest for your closet.
Whenever I talked about choosing my seven looks of the season, I mentioned that I like to pull out my wardrobe’s content and spread it where I can see it all, usually across my bed. The most satisfying part of this process comes at the end, when you only put the pieces you intend to wear back into the closet and sell or donate the rest. Whether you do it this way or digitally (through apps like Whering or Indyx), you can lay out your basic tops and ask these questions:
Lifestyle Alignment
Can you wear it to at least three regular activities in your weekly schedule? Think about how often you’ve worn it in the past three months. This will determine whether it suits your real life or an imagined version.
If your workplace has a dress code, does it project your desired image?
Does it work with at least 70% of the bottoms you own?
Would you pack it for your most common trip? If yes, it may be best stored in a secondary closet space, out of the way of the things you reach for weekly.
Style Evolution
If you saw this in a store today, would you buy it?
Do you reach for it naturally, or do you have to talk yourself into it?
Are you keeping it because you love it or feel guilty about the money spent?
Does wearing it increase or decrease your confidence?
Do you have photos of yourself wearing it where you love your appearance?
Physical Comfort
Can you move naturally and stand straighter in it, or do you fidget and need to readjust constantly throughout the day?
Does the fabric feel pleasant against your skin when you put it on? And after hours of wear?
Do you find yourself thinking about the garment during the day? You shouldn’t think about what you’re wearing, or at least you shouldn't feel friction or discomfort that reminds you that it is there. You should feel confident.
Have you ever changed out of it halfway through your day because you couldn't stand it anymore?
Does it accommodate your body's natural fluctuations throughout the month?
Practical Considerations
Does it transition between the temperatures you encounter on a typical day?
Does it require specific underwear that you own and regularly wear?
Can it be cleaned during your regular laundry routine, or does it require special care that your time and budget don’t cater for?
Has it maintained its shape and colour after wearing and washing?
The tops that pass this rigorous questioning deserve pride of place in your wardrobe. Those who pass all of them may warrant a repeat purchase. During my audit, I discovered that the pieces that I rated the highest have some commonalities - similar necklines (I have a thing for boatnecks), fabrics (natural fibres blended with modal and stretch), and construction details (minimal seaming and tight fits). These questions may help you realise that your basics collection does not need as many additions as you initially thought.
Expanding Your Basics Collection
Shopping for basics demands making decisions about a neckline, sleeve length, fit, cut, colour, fabric, and required care. You also have to consider practical needs, such as layering potential, temperature regulation, and, of course, your budget. No wonder we delegate those decisions to influencers, magazine articles, or, in my case, Reddit threads. It’s overwhelming.
The issue with delegating is that it takes some agency away from us. Sometimes, it makes perfect sense—who has time to carefully weigh in on everything they consume? Some decisions are best left to the experts, but shopping for the right wardrobe basics warrants that extra bit of due diligence. If you sweat a lot, you’ll need moisture-wicking fabrics. If you are frequently cold, silk blend tops might be your best option. If you’re busy with children, stretchy, machine-washable fabrics are ideal. If you have a full bust and prefer modest dressing, high necklines with waist definition might work best. Often, we do not have just one requirement but a combination of them that is unique to us. It’s unlikely that the person recommending a T-shirt has the exact same set of criteria as you. Add to this that, since the dawn of the influencer era, we get fashion inspiration from women who are, for the most part, white, young, and slim (a demographic I belong to, I should acknowledge), and what works for them won’t work for everyone.
Basics are an area of my wardrobe where I have spent willy-nilly over the years because they were dubbed as essentials, and the average price tag is lower than other categories. But these add up over time. It’s also a product category that relies heavily on cotton and synthetics, two fibres that pose environmental challenges throughout their lifecycle - from resource-intensive production to problematic end-of-life disposal. Buying a simple white cotton T-shirt produces the same emissions as driving 35 miles in a car. Getting it right is crucial to reducing waste.
In addition to those listed above, here are 27 other questions to consider when shopping for new basics. Not all questions will apply to you. You can use this as a rigorous checklist or casually make a mental note of something to remember when you next shop. There’s no right or wrong way to go about it.
Style and Design
What's your preferred sleeve length and style for most situations?
Which necklines do you find most flattering on yourself?
What colours do you like? What are the dominant colours of your wardrobe? What would your colour season suggest?
What length of top works best with your preferred bottoms? Do you like to wear your tops tucked in or out?
Do you prefer the look of tight or loose fits, stretchy or structured fabrics?
Do you like basic designs (T-shirts, tank tops, etc.), or are you looking for more visual-interest pieces?
Comfort
Are you typically cold or warm?
Do you experience hot flashes or hormonal temperature fluctuations?
Do you sweat easily? If yes, in which areas specifically (underarms, back, chest)?
Do you need clothes you can easily layer when temperatures change?
How much physical movement does your daily life require? For example, do you need to bend over often to pick up children? Do you cycle or walk to work?
Body Proportions
Do you have any fit issues with standard sizing (e.g., gaping at the bust, tight across the shoulders)?
Are there any body parts you enjoy highlighting? Are there any areas you would prefer to draw attention away from?
Do you have a full, average, or small bust? What's your torso length (short, average, long)? Do you have broad or narrow shoulders?
Professional, Cultural, and Social Considerations
Does your workplace have a dress code? Do you need to consider other elements for your professional life, such as polished necklines for video calls, etc?
Do you need to maintain a certain level of modesty for non-professional reasons like your religion?
Do you often need to transition from day to evening wear?
Practical Care
Do you have time for hand washing, and can you afford dry cleaning?
Do you iron or steam your clothes or need low-maintenance options?
Do you travel frequently (needing wrinkle-resistant fabrics)?
Support and Structure
Do you wear a bra? If so, what style (e.g., strapless, full-cups, sports bra)?
Do your bra or bra straps show with certain necklines? Are you okay with visible bra lines? Do you prefer tops that can be worn without a bra? Do you need tops that accommodate or conceal other specific undergarments?
Do you need built-in support in your tops?
Environmental Factors
What's your local climate like?
Do you spend most of your time in air-conditioned spaces? Do you frequently need to transition between different temperatures?
Do you need sun-protective clothing?
Are you frequently exposed to other elements (e.g. rain, humidity) that might affect fabric choice?
I compiled this list and then used it to single out the most important criteria I needed to pay attention to. The fact that I wear full-cup bras with thick straps that show through everything, that I love to highlight my figure with tight fits and cropped lengths, that I need basics that look nice enough to take me from day to night since I don’t wear blouses or statement tops, and that I wear heavy knits nine months of the year that require a moisture-wicking, comfortable barrier, were all decisive criteria for the basics I ended up buying.
Brands Doing Basics The Right Way
I would contradict myself if I prescribed specific items and assumed that because they work for me, they will inherently work for you. Instead, I’m putting on my former fashion exec and founder hat to tell you about basics brands that put the customer first.
You can almost always expect greater product integrity from brands dedicated to perfecting a specific niche; in this case, brands that specialise in making basics instead of brands that sprinkle their collections with the odd cotton tank top.
Developing a wide range of styles is exceptionally costly, so brands that recognise the need for women to choose between a shallow, regular, or deep V-neck are brands that care. Fans of 100% cotton should look no further than Flore Flore. They use the perfect medium-weight cotton jersey. I just re-purchased a couple of their Car Tees - on SSENSE to avoid import taxes - which I have been loving as a natural fibre alternative to my so-hot-but-so-sweaty SKIMS Fits Everybody T-shirt. Le Set is great, especially if you like Pointelle. If you’re after a Breton striped tee, Saint James will let you choose between light and thick cotton, slim and regular fit, etc. For synthetics, even though I wish they had a wider range, nothing beats tried and true Wolford, although I’ve also heard great things about Organic Basics from reliable sources. This unassuming Wolford boat neck tank top is my most worn top ever.
If you work in an office with a formal dress code or your day-to-day style is polished, you’ll want more than casual jerseys. Equally, if you want tops to wear out that land somewhere between a T-shirt and a statement top, try brands that make elevated basics. Esse Studios makes beautifully draped tops in neutral colours, as does the sustainably minded (and more affordable) Ninety Percent. This is next up on my wishlist.
At a more accessible price point, there is Uniqlo and Intimissimi. Uniqlo is widely praised as a cost-effective alternative; people love the AIRism line in particular. Having purchased from both, I prefer Intimissimi. I wear their Ultralight with Cashmere range under my knitwear. It’s a modal and cashmere blend that comes in various necklines and over twenty colours.
My basics are so lightweight that they look undignified when folded. That would be enough to give me the ick, so I store them all on hangers.
Choosing The Right Fabric For Your Basics
During its lifetime in your wardrobe, a basic top will work harder than the average garment. It sits directly against your skin, absorbing sweat and friction. It’s one of the items you wash most frequently. The cycle of wearing and washing requires fabrics that are durable despite near-constant stress on their fibres. For some, these pieces are the foundation of layered outfits; they have to sit smoothly under other pieces without bunching or creating static. For others, they’re crucial thermal regulation layers, keeping you warm in winter and cool in summer. For all these reasons, choosing the right fabric is essential.
Cotton and Cotton Blends
Not all cotton fabrics are created equal. Regular cotton has relatively short fibres, which causes shape distortion washes after washes. If you’re going for 100% cotton, high-grade Pima or Supima will be a worthwhile investment. It has longer fibres, and the fabric will be more robust, feel softer, and maintain its shape for longer.
If you’re wary of your cotton pieces losing their shape, an elastane blend (of 5% or more) will help them bounce back.
If you don’t have time for ironing, cotton-modal blends will offer the breathability of cotton combined with modal’s resistance to shrinkage and wrinkles.
Jersey weight matters. A very light one will lose its shape quicker, while a weighty one will look stiff and structured. It comes down to personal preference.
Synthetic Blends
I have previously written about avoiding synthetics, but in basics, a little synthetic fibre can go a long way. I steer clear of 100% polyester, but poly-blends can add durability and wrinkle resistance. A small percentage (around 15-20%) won’t compromise breathability too much.
Nylon or spandex blends (like those used by Wolford) are good for fitted pieces because they offer superior stretch recovery. This means your bodysuit or fitted top won't bag out at the elbows or waist.
Natural Luxury Fibres
Merino wool isn't just for winter. Lightweight Merino is great for year-round pieces. Unlike cotton, it can absorb up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet and naturally resists odours.
Silk regulates temperature better than any synthetic. The same goes for Cashmere. Silk blended with a little spandex will have better recovery and be easier to care for.
Modern Technical Blends and Cellulose Fibre
Cupro will feel like silk but be more low-maintenance as you can usually wash it in the washing machine.
Tencel or Lyocell will perform better and be more sustainable than generic viscose. They're produced under stricter quality control, typically offering better moisture management and temperature regulation.
Fabric Red Flags To Avoid
Be wary of bamboo fabric unless it's from a reputable brand. Many cheap bamboo fabrics will pill terribly.
Don’t be like me and fall for fast fashion’s very smooth, cool-feeling jersey that feels like water. It is too good to be true. This jersey is often achieved through silicon washing but will deteriorate after a few washes. I fell for it in Oysho last month when I was in Spain, and it snagged after one wear.
Be aware that while most performance cotton (like Uniqlo’s AIRism line, ‘with Cool Touch and DRY technology for stay-fresh comfort’) is great in the short term, but technical fibre treatments eventually wash away.
Wow, best newsletter about basics ever written. Thank you for finally explaining to me why I should care if something is “Pima” cotton 🤯. I will come back to this time and time again to reference. Was loling at your folded basics giving you the ick. Flore Flore looks amazing and I can’t wait to get my hands on a few pieces!
Liza! This is your writing at your best. At a time where fast fashion hauls and Shein are all the rage, what would happen to ourselves and our planet if we stopped and asked ourselves these questions? How much more comfortable, confident, and conscious would we be?!