066. STYLE SUBCULTURES: Athleisure
Game, Set, Ugly Shoes.
This week,
wrote about the sameness epidemic percolating through your favourite newsletters. Those who have moved through this decade’s blogs > Instagram > newsletters cycle seeking out originality are finding that newsletters are beginning to resemble the algorithmic uniformity of Instagram. This is to say, we’re all out there recommending the same stuff. I’m going to imitate someone who seems to be getting it right, *, and humble brag about the newsletter you’re currently reading; avoiding sameness is precisely what this column, which I started sending out a year ago, sets out to do - showing that there is no cookie-cutter way to dress to work from home, go to the office, go on a weekend trip, party during the holiday season, etc. And I’ll admit that I’ve probably let it slip over time and conceded to give these edits more mass appeal. But all these talks of originality have reminded me why I started it in the first place. What drives me is celebrating individuality. If it’s uniqueness you’re after, I promise you’ll see more weird and wonderful things pop up through this newsletter.Speaking of, yes, those are five-finger shoes you see below. I slept on Tabis only to recently acquire these. I am obsessed with how they look, and it’s pretty cool that they come with many physiological benefits. The Crocs I blame on recently going on holiday with my impossibly cool sister who wears them every day. I’ve also let my own way of dressing slip into mass appeal. I used to be much more adventurous, and I miss hearing ‘What are those?! 🤨’. I find it much more fun to hear than ‘These are nice 🙂’.
Today’s edit shows different style subcultures’ take on athleisure. The term athleisure was coined by a business magazine in 1979 to describe athletic-looking shoes people wore to do non-athletic things. In the 1990s, Princess Diana ran errands wearing varsity crewnecks, spandex shorts, and high-top sneakers paired with a Gucci leather tote with bamboo handles. But it wasn’t until the early 2010s, bolstered by the westernisation of yoga, that athleisure became the new normal way to dress in casual settings. I went to college in those times, and it felt like pants had disappeared off the face of the earth to make way for leggings. Since then, there hasn’t been anything dramatically new or exciting happening in the athleisure category. Unless you count the monochromatic tracksuits everyone bought during lockdown. I predict gorp-y-looking shoes like those I mentioned above will soon make it out of the die-hard barefoot-walking fan communities and into mainstream fashion - especially if they continue making them like this, with ballet-inspired straps and in cute pastel colourways.
As always, the keywords are there to help you identify your style subculture. Use them as search terms to find more inspiration wherever you get your inspiration from. Today’s capsules are loosely inspired by what one might wear on a hike, to a yoga class, to a dance studio, on a tennis court, or to a skater park. Whether you actually get your heart rate up whilst wearing them - I leave that to your discretion.
*If you don’t know who Emily is, she writes a newsletter about culture through the lens of business - or is it the other way around? - which is, in her words and I agree, the most fun place on the internet right now.
Style Subculture #1 Keywords: utilitarian, modern, pockets, eclectic, beige, cargo, khaki, black, on-the-go, hiking-inspired, neutrals, millennial Meredith Blake.
Until recently, brands like KEEN were dad-coded and therefore overlooked. However, the brand has recently started paying attention to creating sandals as interesting to look at as they are functional, and they got onto the fashion girlies’ radar. The Uneek style (above) is water-friendly and designed with looped bungee cords to ingeniously prevent pinching or rubbing. I’ve seen it styled with or without socks, and they look cool either way.
Supergoop sunscreen is still considered the gold standard and is on my list of forever skincare products. I work out first thing in the morning and tend to walk to and from the gym. As I’ve recently picked up applying retinol at night again, walking out without putting on SPF the next morning, even for a short time, is not an option. Yet, I feel icky applying cream to my face at 5.30 AM, so I tried this spray version and now can’t live without it. It’s also great for on-the-go and re-application throughout the day. For anyone hesitant to commit to the price tag of the original formulas, Every Body Gets Dressed shopping editor
shares a surefire tip that applies across all sunscreen brands: Consider buying a “kids’” or “babies”-oriented formula. These sunscreens tend to run much cheaper than their “adult” counterparts (don’t forget to check how many ounces of product you get for the listed price) and provide the same amount of protection (plus, they’re great for people with sensitive skin)!Style Subculture #2 Keywords: polished, preppy, pleats, rich-mom, sharp, tennis-inspired, optic white, stripes, forest green, navy, sophisticated, luxe.
Tory Burch’s new sports line is the perfect first stop when building a capsule wardrobe that incorporates athleisure. Especially if you’re still holding out for a Challengers summer. Strategic stripes, continuity in colour choices, and a focus on matching sets create an easy-to-comb-through outfit-maker that’s as fun to shop as it is to wear. It’s obvious that I’m a huge proponent of keeping your colour choices tightly curated. Even for the smallest wardrobes, it opens the door to endless styling possibilities. Tory Sport’s collections are engineered around this concept, and if you vibe with their colourways, it’s simple to scroll through basics-heavy brands like COS and let similar colours catch your eye. I have tried on their wrap pants above, and they are a great investment at $135. Their design is seasonless - the 100% cotton will weather nicely - and the style is unexpected but not too trendy to stay relevant in the coming years. Size down.
Style Subculture #3 Keywords: modern, tight-fitted, unitard, mossy green, yoga-inspired, matching sets, teal, aqua, soft brown, supportive, cosy, flattering, stretchy, body-con, relaxed, LA aesthetic.
Girlfriend Collective might as well be the only athleisure brand on the market right now - it’s certainly the only label with so many unique shapes, colours, and products that are genuinely technical, supportive, and breathable. That’s not even mentioning its incredible range of sizes and consideration of people with disabilities and mobility challenges. It’s also a plus for us that they regularly run great sales. If you’re tempted by a purchase, add it to your wishlist, and you’ll only need to be a little patient: chances are it’ll be at least 30% off in a month.
I’m new to barefoot walking and five-finger shoes, but Vibrams is considered to have the best price-quality ratio on the market. It’s a sign that my other shoes are not ergonomically optimal but, I won’t lie; it takes some getting used to. On one foot, they fit like a glove and feel incredible. On the other - uncoincidentally, the one I broke nine months ago - I feel a strain between my toes. For now, I’m wearing them around the house to see if I can get used to it. I hope so because, beyond the fact that my feet would greatly benefit, I have found many exciting outfits to style them. I’m more shocked than you are, but I have become obsessed with how cool they look. I‘ll keep you posted on the final verdict.
Style Subculture #4 Keywords: buttercream, Dirty Dancing, soft, romantic, movement, feminine, yellow, athletic, eighties, dance studio-inspired, contrast shorts, varsity.
The tap shorts are from the under-the-radar swim brand Glamaar and are technically sold as bikini bottoms. The best way to ensure a light-coloured piece of clothing won’t become see-through with sweat is to choose a material designed to get wet.
Varley, the label responsible for the very Dirty Dancing short-sleeved sweatshirt, is another underrated gold mine. One of the three words that define my style (Allison Bornstein™) is structured. For that reason, and for their whip-smart attention to details, they are one of my activewear go-tos. Their collection is full of loungewear with a sense of structure, a mood-booster when contrasted with the lumpy shapelessness of most sweats.
Style Subculture #5 Keywords: bright colours, androgynous, casual, relaxed, laid-back, crimson, lilac, comfortable, playful, skater park-inspired, Y2K.
Small brand Nu Swim managed to replicate the exact shade of orange-tinged red of an August tomato. More importantly, they specifically designed these tank tops - in thick 100% cotton fabric - with wear and tear in mind. Since the brand specialises in swimwear and cover-ups, its ready-to-wear pieces are road-tested for hardiness even in the face of saltwater and sun. This means this tank won’t lose its colour saturation or shape even if it’s thrown on over a wet bikini or line-dried in the sun for a bit too long.
What do you think about Flabelus? I think they’re the right balance of funglyb(fun but ugly).
Okay I need more ugly shoes, specifically athletic Mary Jane’s!