116. The Row's Playlist, Soft-Touches Pieces We're Holding Close, and Coats to Keep for Decades
This is EVERY BODY GETS DRESSED’s weekly curated edit of the only fashion newness worthy of your attention.
The Row released their September playlist. Being that it might be the only affordable thing they are offering this season, we indulged immediately. Nneka’s favorites are Chiri Hari by Samba Toure and Everyone’s Wrong by Ariel Pink. Liza’s top tracks are Dirty Work by Steely Dan and Aquarium by Nosaj Thing.
Though these are a little late for September weather, we came across new designer Kashura and her crocheted ballet flats. We love this and this pair the most.
The founding designers of Proenza Schouler moved on to be the creative directors of Loewe earlier this spring. They have been looking for a new creative director to take over their role, and finally announced Rachel Scott as next in line. Scott, who is of Jamaican heritage, created her brand Diotima with the intention of transforming the country’s traditional customs into modern designs that can be worn by women around the world. She’s most known for her knotting techniques and mesh fabrics, as well as her affinity for tailoring and draping. Fun fact: before starting Diotima, Scott was the VP of Design at Rachel Comey. If you’re curious about Rachel’s debut at Proenza, look at Bazaar’s coverage of the presentation here. It will be several months before we get to shop this collection, but in the meantime, you can become familiar with her design language through her own brand. This poplin top ($290 down from $725) gathers around a V-neckline on both the front and back sides, giving more depth and dimension to the everyday white blouse. This maxi Constant dress is a draped gown that has her signature crochet detail along the right side of the waistline. More is available at Moda.
As far as Proenza’s latest in-season arrivals, we love how this mahogany silk dress with asymmetrical sleeves hugs the body and allows folds of fabric to settle along the waistline. This drop waist merino rib dress with its button detail and customizable neckline is the kind I’d want to wear several days a week. Pair it with a slouchy boot, like these from Paris Texas or Proenza’s very own new over-the-knee calfskin boot.
More on boots — Freda Salvador’s pointed knee-high wedge boots come with a kitten heel, allowing you to run around in them all day. Reformation’s new nappa leather boots are more elevated, have a squarish toe, and look great in both ruby and black. If you want a pair that extends right past the knee, Toteme just released a pair in the same material. See below how Caroline Joy styled her tall boots in Sunday’s edition of the Seven-Look Season column.
Soft to the Touch
Khaite’s newly released collection included this silk and cashmere sweater dress. It’s constructed with jersey, which helps keep the dress’ lightweight fabric close to the body while also giving it some stretch. Its mock neckline and long sleeves make the dress feel like a light throw blanket on your skin.
Highlights from the plethora of oversized cashmere sweaters to come out in recent weeks include Kallmeyer’s brushed cashmere V-neck. Our favourite is still this one.
Aflalo just released these lace-embroidered silk pants. An edgier new arrival is their plaid silk taffeta pants. Wear it with mules or a satin heel.
Studio Nicholson’s new Mirelle piece is a chocolate, silky, long-sleeve blouse with drawstrings attached to its cowl neckline. The matching box-pleated Youri skirt is made of the same satin blend material.
This Week in Structure
For more formal outings, Khaite’s sculpted Lowen midi dress has a sharp contour, high neckline and a precise cut detail.
Studio Nicholson has revisited internal boning techniques to create a secure corseted silhouette for their strapless Aude dress.
Kallmeyer has recreated their cropped zip-up windbreaker hoodie in a warmer, 100% wool material. This version also has a zip pull tab with a woven and beaded trinket. This wool and cashmere cropped jacket looks great with its blanket scarf. This new skirt starts with a ruffle detail that slits at its knee, making it a great complement for showy, strappy heels or calf boots. If you’re feeling more daring, layer it over bootcut pants.
Created from wool, Rohe’s A-line midi and bustier top are constructed to keep their wide, voluminous flares with each wear.
St. Agni is currently having an end-of-season sale. We like this boatneck tank top, this bias cut dress with an open back. This asymmetrical piece is a less costly version of Rohe’s similar new one-shoulder top. This pony hair mule is a great everyday basic and comes with a padded insole.
Buy-Once Outerwear: A Big-Ticket Coat Edit
Editor’s Note: Fair warning before we enter coatland: four-digit price tags ahead. Consider this a “buy once, exhale for ten winters” coat edit. I took the plunge with this number two winters ago. I know the feeling. That’s the cost of real weight, good tanning, generous yardage, and skilled hours. Not in the mood today? Totally understandable — skip to the rest of this email and see you next week, when a more affordable coat edit lands.
Co released a brown-toned calf hair coat with a wide, pointed collar and relaxed fit.
This sharply tailored, double-breasted blazer overcoat from Kallmeyer could be your new go-to for in-office days.
House of Dagmar impressed us with their doublé and suede coats’ drop shoulders, distinct collars, and curved details. The suede coat in particular features in-seam pockets, which keep your overall look clean and minimal.
Rohe’s crocodile-embossed trench is crafted from soft sheep leather and features a high, pronounced neckline, rounded shoulders, and a generous cut.
Lustrous Finishes
Remember Leset’s Barb skirt? The brand has used the same material to create a satin trench for their latest collection. Pair it with Khaite’s high-neck mini dress, also made of a similar crepe satin fabric, for a date night look.
Speaking of date-night looks, Nour Hammour’s Althea coat holds a relaxed shape with a sheeny pony hair material. It can bring texture to anyone who’s a fan of combining black with even more black. If you’re looking for a new trench staple, this same silhouette is on sale in 5 different shades of lambskin leather. Note: Lambskin leather is exceptionally soft and comfortable, but it is also fragile and susceptible to stretching, scratching, and even tearing. Only purchase if you’re prepared to pay it great care and attention.
Suede Trenches
Nour Hammour’s Vesper coat has wider lapels and a robe-like silhouette, making it a good option if you want your trench to have a more relaxed look. Their Tate suede trench has a triangular, geometrically cut silhouette with a clean, belted look that sits high at your natural waistline. It’s on sale for $1,445, down from $1,805. If you are more petite, the Briona is similar to the Vesper with a slightly shorter hem. The deep mocha color is on sale at $1,305 from $1,933. Its black leather version also has a similar discount.
Plush Overcoats
Another Rohe standout is the Mandarin coat with its standing funnel collar, knotted cord closures, and “brushed” faux-fur coating. It made it a successful addition to Liza’s personal wishlist.
Malene Birger’s sold-out-everywhere Rafaia leopard-printed coat is back in stock.
More from Hammour: This suede Joni coat is a textured trench, lined with shearling, with a minimalistic tie at the waist. Because the fur extends to the coat’s trim and the coat was created to naturally cinch at the waist, it keeps its nipped shape when unbelted. The curly shearling version looks stunning when reversed. Ulla Johnson’s Ceryse coat has a similar style in a warm, brown-orange tone. This blanket suede and shearling coat is also reversible but belt-free. Named the Birthday coat, it takes on a less tailored approach than the Joni. Finally, the Toscana lets you own both a fur coat and a leather jacket at once. Lambskin is super soft to the touch and will make for a comfortable lining.
For those looking for a shearling coat with less busyness around the collar area, Toteme released an oversized, collarless coat that allows you to layer with scarves and high-neck sweaters comfortably.
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As someone who lives in a cold climate, I can justify spending a lot for a coat, but on the other hand, because they need to be used so often for every day situations, I'm wary about having "too nice" of a coat. I just hate that mostly synthetic/heavy synthetic coats now cost $200+. It feels like it's raising the bar for costs across the board.