061. I Shopped The Sandals On Your Wishlist
Reviewing St.Agni, Emme Parsons, Totême, Aeyde, and more.
In this week’s column, I review one of your most wishlisted items of the summer - thin-straps, minimalist, flat sandals. I review multiple pairs across a range of price points from brands that you frequently ask me to review and brands that are abuzz in the Substack universe. Today’s letter includes sandals by St. Agni, Jil Sander, Aeyde, Emme Parsons, Totême, Ancient Greek Sandals, and ATP Atelier. I score each brand on value for money, quality, design, comfort, and fit and award them an overall score.
I almost always shop with quality and durability in mind. Sometimes, I have to compromise on quality when I can’t afford it. Rarely, but it happens, I shop for a design regardless of the quality. It’s important to understand what we’re paying for. I found that, for the brands I reviewed today, value for money and price weren’t exactly linear. The most expensive pair is mediocre in terms of quality. The fit of each pair became narrower as the price tag increased. There was a clear contrast in the level of craftsmanship under and above a specific $ amount.
I love fashion as much as the next gal, but I also work hard for my money and I want bang for my bucks. If we continue to buy sub-par quality fashion, what’s preventing brands to continue making it?
I wanted you to have an expert’s opinion in addition to mine. I reviewed the sandals with my close friend
, a shoe brand founder who has designed, developed, and produced multiple sandal collections. Melissa tells us whether the price of each pair feels fair. I shared which pair of sandals I would buy and which one she would buy. As an introduction to today’s column, I interviewed her about what makes a great-quality, great-fitting sandal. This was sent last week; if you missed it, you can catch up here.I hope you have a beautiful Sunday. Love, L x
Note: This newsletter does not include affiliate links, gifts, or sponsored content.
St. Agni Rouleau Flat, $195
Fit: TTS.
Width: Normal.
Materials: upper 100% lamb leather, insole 100% cow leather, outsole: 100% rubber.
Made in: India (average national monthly wage of garment workers: $145).
Ethical supply chain certifications: Yes.
What’s Good
A great-looking sandal. I’ve got to give it to St.Agni, the Australian brand founded and led by a husband and wife creative duo, for consistently nailing the nineties sexy-minimalist aesthetic. It takes a visionary to create designs that are beautiful in their simplicity.
I love slip-on sandals that are easy to get in and out of. I’m all for stress-free dressing, especially in Summer.
The fit is spot on. I’m a 36.5, and these feel a tiny bit too big. The width is roomy and might even work for a slightly wider foot. There are no half sizes, so you would need to order two sizes and make a call based on what feels most comfortable. I would have gone half a size down in these.
The outsole is made of rubber with an anti-slip detail. This might be a negative for some, but I use my sandals as day shoes in the summer (on the sand, etc.), so in my book, that’s a plus for durability and usability. That being said, as rubber is significantly cheaper than leather, I’d expect it to be reflected in the price.
I appreciate the brand's transparency on the product page of their website.
What’s Not So Good
My first impression upon unboxing them is that of rudimental craftsmanship. The sole is thick - a good thing - but rigid. It’s uneven, which gives off an unrefined impression. The rouleau straps are glued together rather than stitched, and the leather wrapped around them feels cheap. There are scuffs and marks on the soles, which I don’t mind about. The brand pre-empts this on their website: ‘not considered a fault but inherent to the natural beauty and uniqueness of the leather’. But because the straps feel so poorly constructed, I’m inclined to put it down to low-quality materials as opposed to ‘uniqueness’.
They wear just like flip-flops - they clap against your feet when you walk. There's nothing wrong with that when a flip-flop is made of a light block of foam, but because this sole is heavy and stiff (the rubber outsole doesn’t help), the tubular straps dig into my skin. Within a few minutes of walking in them, they are downright painful, and my big toes turn a lovely shade of purple.
The Expert’s Perspective - with Melissa Epifano Varley of Winnoh
‘I wouldn’t consider the unevenness of the sole a red flag, provided it doesn’t affect how you walk in them. The rubber sole is great for durability. However, just looking at the straps gives me pain - whether you have narrow or wide feet - thin cylindrical straps feel like rope versus flat straps that lay more comfortably on the skin’.
Does The Price Seem Fair?
‘I understand the price; the brand sells through many different stockists, and retail markups are substantial. However, because they’re uncomfortable and because of the materials they’re made of, I wouldn’t pay that price.’
Would I Buy Them?
Sadly not. Design-wise, they’re one of my favourites. The value you’re getting isn’t terrible, and it’s important to note that their not being the best quality is expected based on their positioning. St. Agni intends to be more affordable than other mid-range brands. The shoe was made in a country where the average garment worker's wage is a fraction of the others on this list. As mentioned above, there are instances when I choose to compromise on quality for a more affordable price, but with this pair, I feel all too aware that I’m paying for a 2.2 to 2.5 retail markup. Even if I could look past it, I could not buy or recommend these just because of how uncomfortable they are. Still, they left me curious to try more pieces from the brand.
Value: 2/5
Quality: 2/5
Design: 5/5
Fit: 5/5
Comfort: 1/5
Overall Score: 15/25
Ancient Greek Sandals Celia Sandals, $265
Fit: TTS. Size up if you’re in between sizes.
Width: Normal.
Materials: 100% leather minus the rubber ring around the toe separator and the rubber anti-slip heel.
Made in: Greece (range of national monthly wage of garment workers: $750 -$1,400).
Ethical supply chain certifications: Not available.
What’s Good
I may be biased because I have owned several pairs of AGS sandals over the years, and they’ve served me well. Below, I have attached pictures of what a pair with the exact same sole looks like after nearly ten years of use. They look battered, but
they’ve not discolored, and the straps are still holding together. I continue to wear them every summer.
They look great in that minimalist kind of way.
Like the St Agni, the craftsmanship feels a little rustic on first impression, although the soles on these look neater and smoother. No marks or scratches are in sight. They have that handmade feel, and there’s something to be said about a pair of unrefined sandals; they still look beautiful once a little loveworn.
The straps are flat and somewhat wider, so they sit more comfortably on the skin.
The sole is also on the chunky side and it’s slightly thicker under the heel with the addition of the anti-slip rubber sole. That rubber heel is also on my old pairs of AGS and it has worn out much less than the leather sole. This is a casual sandal you could get a lot of wear out of so the addition of the rubber feels like a clever design choice.
The length and width are just right with no overhang. If you have wide feet, I think these would be too narrow (I see the model on the website spills out of the sandal).
What’s Not So Good
The straps are glued together but although they look neater than the St.Agni’s, the look and feel of the leather still doesn’t feel very premium. The leather of the ones I bought ten years ago is much nicer. Did I stutter?
The wearability isn’t great. Take this with a pinch of salt as I have already told you I’m not a fan of wraparounds. When I first tie the strings to feel comfortable around my ankles, my feet swing sideways as I walk and fall off the sandals. When I tie them more tightly, I feel more stable but the tension through the straps combined with the stiff sole feels uncomfortable around my Achilles and ankles.
I assume they’ve added the plastic toe separator to make them more comfortable, but it doesn’t feel great. There’s a huge bump coming through the outsole under the toe separator (you can clearly see it in the images I have included above) and I can feel it when I walk.
The Expert’s Perspective
‘These are again quite stiff. The plastic toe separator is a strange choice as it doesn’t make the experience of wearing the sandals nicer. A leather toe separator might rub at first but would have softened over time to fit nicely between the toes. The bump underneath is not ideal. I see why this happened; regardless of whether they get stapled, nailed or glued, toe separators are difficult to hide, and you need a thicker sole, even if it is at the expense of the style. This is a poor design decision as opposed to a manufacturing error. Manufacturers make what brands ask of them. Brands who have good communication with their factories would have been fed back that the design they asked for goes against the wearability of the shoe. Brands sometimes override those manufacturing recommendations.’
Does The Price Seem Fair?
‘The design error tugs down on the price. There needs to be a certain level of attention to detail to justify a price like this. In this case, I don’t think it’s worth it.’
Would I Buy Them?
Based on past purchases, I would recommend their sandals and buy from them again. I wouldn’t buy this exact pair because they’re uncomfortable. If we think in terms of value, the quality doesn’t justify buying them at full price. I would be partial to buying them on sale. The Outnet stocks dozens of their styles year-round at -50%.
Value: 2/5
Quality: 3/5
Design: 4/5
Fit: 5/5
Comfort: 2/5
Overall Score: 16/25
ATP Atelier Alassio Nappa Flat Sandals, $270
Fit: TTS.
Width: Extremely narrow.
Materials: 100% lamb leather.
Made in: Italy (range of national monthly wage of garment workers: $1,350 - $2,250).
Ethical supply chain certifications: Not available.
What’s Good
The leather used for the straps feels soft, pliable, and of great quality. The straps were stitched when the other two pairs were glued. It’s more durable and more costly to execute. The straps are flat so they sit comfortably on the skin without digging.
The square toe looks sleek.
What’s Not So Good
So many odd design choices. The sole is extremely slim, i.e. minimal amounts of materials were used, i.e. cheaper to produce. It’s also extremely narrow - so much so that I’m not sure whose anatomy would allow this shoe to fit without overhang. I can see toe spillage on every image I found of these online. This comes across as a lack of focus on fit and wearability, a real miss for this price point.
Because of the slim sole, my foot slides sideways, backwards, and forwards as I walk, making my stride awkward.
As I opened the box, the sole showed signs of wear and tear. These would have occurred in the factory or when another customer tried them on before returning them. Either way, it doesn’t fill me with confidence that this pair of sandals will be durable. The edges of the sole are raised and sharp (you can see this in the pictures) which is quite uncomfortable when walking.
The leather outsole is completely smooth and therefore slippery. Because it’s already so thin and without protection, the soles will wear out quickly unless you’ve purchased them to wear only on special occasions.
The Expert’s Perspective
‘They are really stiff, and while leather gets broken in overtime, wearing them might be painful at first. When soles are that slim and not flexible, it can feel like you’re walking around with duck feet. You’ll be smacking your feet until they get softer. The raised edges also make them uncomfortable unless you have a very narrow foot.
Does The Price Seem Fair?
‘They’re made of leather in Italy so the retail price reflects artisans being paid a fair wage. Sometimes comfort and style don’t go hand in hand. If you’re after that super sleek minimalist look with the very thin sole you might be ok to compromise on comfort. I’m unwilling to, so I don’t think this pair is worth it.’
Would I Buy Them?
No. The fit and design felt off, and nothing in the quality or design really made up for it.
Value: 3/5
Quality: 3/5
Design: 4/5
Fit: 2/5
Comfort: 2/5
Overall Score: 14/25
Aeyde Nala Leather Toe-Post Sandals, $325
Fit: Slightly small. Size up if you’re in between sizes. (Note: The Net-A-Porter website suggests the opposite, even though the model on their images looks like she is hanging off the shoe. This is likely because of the issue I describe below, which will not be fixed by sizing down).
Width: Narrow.
Materials: inside material 100% cross-breed lamb leather, outside material 100% Nappa leather.
Made in: Italy (range of national monthly wage of garment workers: $1,350 - $2,250).
Ethical supply chain certifications: Not available.
What’s Good
Right out of the box, there’s a clear contrast in the quality of this pair versus the previous three. This looks and feels like sophisticated craftsmanship. The brand opted for a convoluted design, wrapped the sole in leather, and placed it in the outsole. A much more costly technique to execute as it requires more material. The different leathers are really soft and beautiful. The stitches are neat, and the hardware is premium.
The outsole is stiff, but the insole is soft and cushioned.
I appreciate that this is the only brand in today’s line-up that offers half sizes. This is great for people who are truly between sizes and want to achieve the perfect fit.
What’s Not So Good
There’s a small but extremely crucial design error. They haven’t made enough holes in the straps. (I don’t have a narrow foot, and I am missing about four or five holes to make the straps work for my foot circumference, so this would be a problem for anyone buying these). It’s a quick DIY or pop-in-to-the-cobbler-next-door job to punch some extra holes in the straps. Still, I think it’s disappointing to pay this price and be left with this issue.
Without the needed holes, the shoes fall off my foot, so I can’t try them out. It explains why Net-A-Porter has a video of a model walking around wearing every product, but they don’t have one of these sandals. More importantly, it’s a sign that the brand hasn’t tried and tested their samples.
The fit is also not right. They are very wide where the ball of my foot is and very narrow at the tip, so my toes stick out from either side of the shoe.
In places where the straps have been stitched together, they feel rough and scratch my skin. This is another detail that would have been accounted for in a simple fit test.
The Expert’s Perspective
‘I love that they have wrapped the insole in leather. It’s beautifully done, and the soft edges are lovely. Sandals made using this technique are my personal favourite and it’s costly to execute. Nappa leather on the bottom is also something I choose for my shoes. It can be slippery at first, but it’s really nice and soft once the sole has been roughed up. The errors are disappointing. The ankle strap is a vital component of any sandal. If you’re paying more for a shoe, you can expect it to have been tested on different ankle and foot sizes. If a brand doesn’t work with a shoe technician or they don’t test shoes, important details like these can be missed.’
Does The Price Seem Fair?
‘I’m sad about the details that were missed on the straps because without it the price makes sense. I can see it reflected in the quality of the materials used and the craftmanship. Based on quality alone, this is the pair I would personally buy from everything we’ve tried on today.’
Would I Buy Them?
This felt like tasting a recipe cooked from the finest ingredients and with the greatest intentions, but the execution was left to be desired. It would annoy me to have paid this much and have to do the holes, so I would return them for that issue alone. This was a miss but, like with the St. Agni’s, I’m curious to try the brand again.
Value: 4/5
Quality: 4/5
Design: 4/5
Fit: 1/5
Comfort: 3/5
Overall Score: 16/25
Emme Parsons Susan Leather Sandals, $425
Fit: TTS. Size up if you’re in between sizes.
Width: Narrow to Normal.
Materials: 100% Nappa leather.
Made in: Italy (range of national monthly wage of garment workers: $1,350 - $2,250).
Ethical supply chain certifications: Yes.
What’s Good
Sheesh! On first impression, this screams expensive. The craftsmanship involved looks so sophisticated, and the leather feels incredibly fine. I’m very impressed.
There’s a level of attention to detail not seen in the previous pairs. There’s a lining, also called a sock, an additional layer of leather added to the inner sole of luxury footwear for extra comfort. While this lining is often glued to cut costs, this one is stitched intricately. There is a more pronounced heel (read, more material), so the shoe isn’t completely flat. The insole is wrapped in leather. The wraparound ties are finished with beautiful hardware. More delicate stitching can be found along the ties (they were glued on the previous pairs). The toe ring is flat, which is more comfortable than cylindrical ones, and made of two layers of buttery soft leather.
The insole feels cushioned and soft to walk in.
I love the look of them and the contrast between the slim ties and wider toe rings. Minimalist but a little different.
This is a small detail but one that I appreciated: the shoe box these came in was perfectly sized for the sandals to fit snuggly inside it. Many of the others came in bulky boxes. This matters when the weight and size of shipments impact a brand’s transport environmental footprint.
What’s Not So Good
Depending on how tightly I tie the strings, they feel more or less stable. As I would with any wraparound design, I find the ties uncomfortable. They start digging, and they leave marks around my ankles. I am kicking myself for only noticing now that the brand makes a slide version of this sandal.
The Expert’s Perspective
‘This shoe is well constructed. The sock being stitched is chef’s kiss - it won’t pop up when you walk around and your feet sweat. It’s a very nice-looking shoe and hard to fault. The tag in the center is the only detail I would change - different people hold different pressure points on the soles of their feet, and it might be irritating for some.’
Does The Price Seem Fair?
‘All these design details are costly to execute, and as the brand manufacturers in Italy, it makes sense for it to be reflected in the price. That being said, I still think it’s possible to find sandals similar in quality that are cheaper. If I had a bigger budget, and again, based on quality alone, this would be my second choice out of the sandals we’ve tried on today.’
Would I Buy Them?
I wouldn’t buy this exact pair because of personal preference, but this is definitely the brand I’m turning to for the next addition to my shoe collection. It’s helpful to have Melissa weigh in and debunk the concept of value. It’s easy to forget that it is possible to find quality for less when so much of the market is flooded with sub-par quality products. The sandal is on sale here and pre-owned here and here. If bought on sale, I’d say the value of these can’t be beaten.
Value: 4/5
Quality: 5/5
Design: 5/5
Fit: 3/5
Comfort: 3/5
Overall Score: 21/25
Totême Suede Tie Sandal, $500
Fit: TTS.
Width: Normal.
Materials: Sheep leather sole and rubber inserts.
Made in: Italy (range of national monthly wage of garment workers: $1,350 - $2,250).
Ethical supply chain certifications: Yes.
What’s Good
Similar to the Emme Parsons, although not quite as impressive, these are really well-made. I see super neat tiny stitches throughout, a stitched lining, and padding in the sole. of the ties.
They look sexy! Again, I like the contrast of the different strap widths.
Between the suede and the generous padding, these sandals feel incredibly comfortable - head and shoulders above the rest. The sole is also more flexible, which makes it effortless to walk in. It’s the only pair that made me forget that I was wearing shoes.
What’s Not So Good
I’m unsure whether this is a fit issue or a consequence of the suede being so soft, but my foot slides backwards when I walk, and I have to adjust the straps multiple times.
The Expert’s Perspective
‘I absolutely love suede, but it’s an interesting choice for a flat sandal. It’s sought after for being softer and suppler than leather and more comfortable from the first wear. However, it’s not as durable as leather. Sandals are usually worn in hot and moist climates, and humidity doesn’t marry well with suede. This sandal wouldn’t wear well over time if used a lot.
Does The Price Seem Fair?
‘Wow! For this price, this better be a pretty good suede! This is the top end of the budget I would ever spend on a sandal. This is beautiful with lovely materials, but with Totême being widely distributed, you’re paying a hefty markup for wholesale and branding. More generally, what I think is lacking is brands articulating why they charge high prices. If Totême can tell me that their suede is impeccable, that it wears really well, and that their artisans get paid a fair wage, I would be more inclined to spend this amount.’
Would I Buy Them?
I’m basic; therefore, I love Totême. They’re always touted for their minimalist, neutral, and highly wearable aesthetic. I personally think that’s the least interesting thing about them. I love it for the quality. Everything I have ever bought or tried on from the brand has been made with care and weighty, luxurious materials. I will continue to purchase from the brand as often as I can afford to. That being said, I wouldn’t buy this very pair of sandals because I see them as special occasion sandals. If you wear them more often, they will wear out quickly. I want sandals that I can wear on the sand in humid weather. I knocked points off the value because if the cost per wear is high, then the value is not great at that price point.
Value: 3/5
Quality: 5/5
Design: 5/5
Fit: 3/5
Comfort: 4/5
Overall Score: 20/25
Jil Sander Pointed-Toe Flat Sandals, $750
Fit: TTS.
Width: Narrow.
Materials: 100% calf leather (allegedly, but I doubt it)
Made in: Italy (range of national monthly wage of garment workers: $1,350 - $2,250).
Ethical supply chain certifications: Not available.
What’s Good
When I first tried these on, I found them difficult to walk with. Because they are so long, it felt like walking with flippers on. The pointed toe required some getting used to, but I found these sandals really comfortable once I got past it. The sole is light and slim, but also soft and supple. My toes overhang, but at least I feel stable.
What’s Not So Good
I didn’t know whether to put the design as a positive or a negative. I love the unusual design, but it’s the kind of silhouette that looks great on hand but odd when worn. From most angles, these shoes look unflattering.
This sandal is made for a very long, narrow foot. The vertical strap is so long that it doesn’t lay flat on top of my foot.
The leather used throughout the shoe, but especially the insole and lining feels sub-par. I suspect that, at the very least, the lining is made of plastic, which was omitted from the (very succinct) product description. I am not sure what mediocre material they used to wrap the sole, but the tip of the insole ripples like paper (you can clearly see this if you zoom in on the photos I have included). Although these sandals are 40% to 55% more expensive than the previous two pairs, they are of significantly lesser quality. The lining is glued rather than stitched and will flap about after a few wears, no doubt. Strangely, they have only included a half cushion instead of padding the entire sole. I can feel glue across the sole, which is a big red flag.
The Expert’s Perspective
‘The design is really unique, but there are errors. The leather textures across the shoe are odd. The half cushion feels like a shortcut. I don’t like that the strap doesn’t lay on the skin. The tag is made of fabric, which is going to rub uncomfortably. The silhouette would really only suit a narrow foot.’
Does The Price Seem Fair?
‘I would not pay this for this shoe. What you are paying for here is branding.’
Would I Buy Them?
I wouldn’t judge anyone who bought these shoes for the design. I have bought much more dubious things in my time. But this is a good example of why I wanted to publish this benchmarking exercise. After comparing quality and prices across multiple brands, I couldn’t justify it to myself.
Value: 1/5
Quality: 3/5
Design: 4/5
Fit: 2/5
Comfort: 4/5
Overall Score: 14/25
This is excellent! Thank you!
Oh, and also you have given voice to something I have always called “runaway pinky syndrome” … those damn pinkies, always running off the edge