012. This is How to Layer in 86°F.

You love a layered look as much as you love summer. Here are 8 styling hacks to having the best of both worlds.

Jul 09, 2023

Layers are the bread and butter of styling. Foolproof and easy to implement, layering is a styling trick known to most and used by many. So what happens when summer rolls around and your blazers and knits are no longer adequate? Or when you live in Austin or Rio and the temperatures are high all year round? “How do I layer in summer?” is one of the most frequently asked questions I receive, and not being able to layer is the main reason why the majority of women prefer cold weather fashion to hot weather fashion. In this newsletter, I share 8 styling tips for a layered look in hot weather and links to 56 key pieces you can shop to achieve it.

1. Choose Trompe-L’Oeil Pieces

You won’t need to layer if you strategically go for pieces that do the heavy lifting for you. When you shop, look up key words like ‘wrap’, ‘layered’ ‘fold over’, or ‘asymmetric’, to find pieces that have been designed to look like two pieces of clothing layered over each other. You can also try ‘patchwork’ or ‘panels’. The contrast of color and patterns between the different fabrics adds a layer of depth. These statement pieces make very impactful outfits, even paired with simple basics.

Image credits: Style du Monde and Gianluca Senese.

Shop Layered Pieces

Trousers: linen pants with folded over detail Reformation $198, organza layered shorts Lafayette 148 $449, frayed pants with layered skirt Dries Van Noten $489, layered twill pants Loewe $960 (this styling does not do it justice, I suggest something more casual like a regular fit tee-shirt and chunky masculine flat sandals), chic and cool trompe-l’oeil trousers Monse $1,090.
Skirts: classic printed wrap mini Farm Rio $134, maximalist brightly colored midi Chopova Lowena $261, ruffled trompe-l’oeil mini with Y2K vibes Jacquemus $388, super versatile wrap skirt with folded over panel A.L.C $495, frayed asymmetric mini Acne Studios $440.
Dresses: Meredith Blake would wear this Reformation $178, pleated with a sophisticated utilitarian feel A.L.C $451, mini with overlay at the waist Jacquemus $471, really chic with asymmetric striped panels Monse $990.
Tops: Layered version of classic tank top which also comes in black St Agni $255, a more feminine version 3.1 Phillip Lim $217, an edgier version Hyein Seo $259, top with spliced together panels for those with a casual or sporty aesthetic Conner Ives $168.

2. Think Outside the Box

Front opening skirts can be layered over dresses and other skirts. Bustiers, as well as strapless and spaghetti-straps dresses can be layered over camis and tank tops. Button down shirt dresses can be worn over shorts. You don’t need to wear something to be able to layer it; you can tie a denim jacket, sweater, or shirt around your waist or shoulders. These are all shortcuts to the relaxed vibes of a layered look.

3. A Shirt Is a Summer Blazer (and a Bra Is a Summer Top)

An oversized shirt is one of those rare items that is truly trans-seasonal. This makes them a worthy investment. In summer, consider your shirts as a lightweight outerwear layer and wear them with any outfit you would add a blazer when the temperatures are more chilled. Choose them in a naturally insulating fabric like cotton or linen to make sure they keep you cool. I recommend going for a fit that is somewhere between relaxed and oversized, as opposed to excessively oversized, to ensure it remains timeless over time. As you can see in the examples below, a visible bra + open shirt makes for a great summer layering formula. If the sound of it makes you feel sheepish or if your bras look too “underwear-y”, a sports bra, bikini top, bralette, or crop top work just as well.

Shop Oversized Shirts and Bralettes

These are some of my favourite oversized shirts (make sure you check all the colors available for each of them): organic cotton long shirt Closed $185, relaxed fit cotton poplin shirt Viktoria & Woods $270, oversized striped shirt Frame $348, lightweight oversized shirt Nili Lotan $495.
Bralettes: casual scoop neck cotton jersey bralette SKIMS $21, ruched satin halter neck bandeau top LESET $47, denim bralette Agolde $170, patchwork cotton crochet top Alix Pinho $222, cropped lace crochet top Alanui $427.

4. Use Contrast to Create Depth

The fact that it adds depth to any outfit, is what makes layering look so good. It takes it from plain and flat to visually interesting. However, there are other styling techniques that achieve the same result, like utilising contrast. There are many ways to build contrast into an outfit: mixing traditionally feminine and masculine pieces, mixing pieces from different style aesthetics (e.g. something sporty with something preppy), mixing colors and prints, wearing strong structural pieces for a volume contrast, etc. If you want to learn more about it and see a ton of visual examples, I wrote a whole newsletter about contrast. You can read it here.

5. Double Down on Accessories

According to the FLAIR framework (the framework I use to turn any outfit from good to great, you can read about it here), ‘L’ stands for Layers, and ‘A’ stands for Accessories. The best thing to do when the former is unavailable, is to double down on the latter.

Your jewelry looks even better layered in summer than it does in winter. Wearing a collection of pieces of jewelry and trinkets around your neck and/or wrist will transform even the simplest summer outfit formulas. Which make it ideal if you need to pack light this summer. I dedicated an entire newsletter to tips for building the perfect jewelry stack. You can read it here.

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The best dressed people wear belts. I phrased this as clickbait for TikTok but it’s not far from the truth. To women looking to elevate their style, I always say that if you have only have the budget for one piece, it should be a belt. Whether it’s a classic leather belt or a statement corset one, they help tremendously to create visually interesting looks.
Hats, caps, and hair accessories also go a long way to style a summer look.
Silk, cotton, or linen scarves are the most versatile summer accessory. Tie larger ones around your waist, like a belt, or around your shoulders, and wear them as overskirts on trousers and dresses. Tie thinner ones around your wrists, neck, and the handles of your bag, and through the belt loops of shorts.

Shop Accessories:

Jewelry: An edit of some of my favourite fine and fashion jewelry brands is in this newsletter.
Belts: a nice pop of summery color Déhanche $70, the perfect halfway point between a classic belt and a statement corset Little Liffner $112, classic chocolate suede belt with soft gold hardware Anderson $190, I have this black leather and silver hardware one and wear it an absurd amount Déhanche $220, laser cut logo waist belt Loewe $650.
Hats: star raffia cowboy hat Lack of Color $139, hemp raw trims sunhat Totême $240.
Scarves: printed silk scarf Casablanca $90, printed silk-twill slim scarf Pucci $240, floral silk georgette scarf with appliqués Dries Van Noten $506.

6. Opt for a Relaxed Fit

Another reason why layering looks so good, is the effortless and slightly undone impression it gives off. An alternative to achieving this vibe is wearing clothes with a relaxed fit. Avoid super oversized, as it is not as timeless, and instead go for relaxed, slighty oversized, baggy, or slouchy fits for a graphic tee shirt, a silk skirt that hangs off your hips, an oversized shirt, or a pair of slouchy linen trousers. For trousers, try going up a size from your usual size for a slightly dropped crotch and hem that bunches up lightly over your sandals. Make sure you pair them with a top that is fitted to create balance as this is essential to any great outfit.

7. Leverage Those ‘Barely There’ Pieces

There are layers you can wear that won’t get you overheating. For example, those who favour a sporty aesthetic can try wearing a shell jacket. A cotton short-sleeved shirt is just as useful as the long-sleeved version mentioned above and a great swap on very hot days. Pay a visit to the party section of your wardrobe, your skimpy tops could look perfect layered over a shirt or tee (as shown below). Finally, an organza top or shirt adds a layer of femininity and sophistication when juxtaposed over a bralette or crop top. The same goes for any open-knit or macramé pieces that reveals your underwear underneath.

Shop ‘Barely There’ Pieces

Cropped shell jacket Lapointe $510.
Embroidered short-sleeved shirt Story MFG. $204, short-sleeved printed oversized shirt Matteau $420.
Crystal-embellished cropped top LoveShackFancy $245, asymmetric halter neck top Staud $395.
Sheer ruffled blouse House of Harlow $233, embellished organza shirt Nili Lotan $382.
Crochet-knit cardigan Acne Studios $402, fringed crochet cotton top Savannah Morrow $460.

8. Mix Textures and Multiply Details

Finally, to add depth and make your summer outfits interesting, introduce texture by mixing different fabrics. Shop using keywords like “crinkled”, “pleated”, “ribbed”, and “textured”. Wearing crochet is a great way to introduce texture in summer.

You can also look up pieces with statement design details like bows or embellishments to make the look appear “busier”. Adding small athleisure or utilitarian touches infuses a look with an air of laissez-faire like the multiple pockets and camo print on the third look below.

This Wednesday’s paid newsletter will be a summer edition of the high low wardrobe; where I will share insights into the summer pieces that are worth the investment, versus those I tend to save on. If you’d like to receive it in your inbox, and unlock access to all my newsletters, consider upgrading for $7/month.